Slovenia, part I: four nights in Logarska Dolina, among spectacular mountains and places where we would stay a little longer

Slovenia, part I: four nights in Logarska Dolina, among spectacular mountains and places where we would stay a little longer

Travelogue Up the Mountains | September 2026 | Kamnik–Savinja Alps, Slovenia

There are places where you arrive, take a few photos, say it's beautiful, and move on. And there are places where, after the first ten minutes, you already start thinking about when you might come back.

Logarska Dolina, in Slovenia, falls into the second category. We say it's the most beautiful valley in the Alps.

A glacial valley surrounded by limestone walls, with very green meadows, traditional farms, cows that seem to have a considerably quieter life than ours, and mountains that rise spectacularly above it all.

In September 2026, I left Cluj-Napoca for my first foreign adventure, Up the Mountains. The destination was Slovenia.

We spent the first part of the trip in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, based in Logarska Dolina. We explored glacial valleys, climbed to alpine huts, crossed mountains from one valley to another, and discovered a few places we would return to anytime.

And because Slovenia offered us too many beautiful things for a single article, we divided the story into two. We start with Logarska Dolina and its surroundings. We will tell you about the Soča Valley, where we continued our adventure, separately.

The road from Cluj to Logarska Dolina. With a break in Maribor

We left Cluj early in the morning, with our cars loaded with luggage, boots, mountain equipment, and enough enthusiasm for a few good days exploring Slovenia.

The road took us through Hungary and then to northeastern Slovenia, where we took a break in Maribor.

Maribor is the second largest city in Slovenia, located on the banks of the Drava River. In terms of size, it's a bit like Satu Mare or Buzău. In terms of atmosphere, however, it's a little Graz that didn't feel the need to make itself big. It has a charming historic center, nice terraces, and the kind of relaxed atmosphere that makes you wonder if people here have ever heard of stress.

We stopped for a bite to eat. We had time to explore the city a bit, enough to like it and put it on our list of places worth returning to.

An interesting detail: Maribor is home to the oldest fruiting vine in the world, not just in Europe. It's called Stara trta (Old Vine), it's over 450 years old and grows on the facade of a building in the historic Lent district, right next to the Drava River.

With our batteries recharged, we set off further towards Logarska Dolina.

As we got closer, the roads got narrower, the forests got thicker, and the mountains started to come into view. You know that feeling when, after many hours of driving, you finally start to see the mountains you left home for? Exactly.

And then we entered Logarska Dolina.

We stopped the cars and got out to marvel. Not because we needed a break, but because it was simply too beautiful to pass by. In front of us lay a valley that was too neat and clean, with perfectly manicured meadows, traditional farms and huge limestone walls rising above them. There were also some furry cows, of course.

Logarska Dolina – one of the most beautiful valleys in Slovenia

Logarska Dolina is a glacial valley about 9 kilometers long in northern Slovenia, close to the Austrian border. It is part of the Solčavsko region and is surrounded by the Kamnik–Savinja Alps. Limestone mountains, huge walls, spectacular ridges.

But what's really special here is the contrast. Down below you have ridiculously green meadows, traditional farms, forests and cows grazing peacefully, probably unaware of how well they're doing. Everything looks so neat that you start to suspect that Slovenians mow the grass in the forest too. Up above, however, the mountains are as serious as can be. Steep walls, scree, sharp ridges and trails where the fact that you've taken 20,000 steps a day through the city doesn't help you much.

It reminded us of the Dolomites. Only here you don't have to wake up at 5am to find a parking space or wait for 14 influencers to step out of the frame to take a photo of a mountain. In September it's quieter, less crowded, and without a doubt, everything feels more authentic.

The valley is protected as a landscape park, and the Slovenians had the good sense not to spoil what nature has given them so well. There are no huge hotels, parking lots the size of three football fields, or terraces with loud music. Instead, there are 500-year-old farms converted into guesthouses, small restaurants with local food, and plenty of hiking trails.

We don't know exactly how they managed to keep everything so beautiful. But after a few days there, we came to the conclusion that Slovenians are suspiciously good at it.

For us, the combination was almost perfect.

Where we stayed: Lenar Farm, a traditional farm in the middle of the valley

For our four nights in Logarska Dolina, we chose Lenar Farm, a traditional farm right in the middle of the valley. Actually, “chosen” is a bit of an understatement. I’ve been here twice before and somehow it never even crossed my mind to look for anything else. There are many reasons why this is my favorite mountain accommodation.

The farm has belonged to the Lenar family for many, many generations. So many that their ancestors were probably complaining about the Habsburg administration before it became a European tradition.

Today, the place is run by Mr. Avgust Lenar, his wife, and their daughter. And it's clear that it's not just a business, but their home, with a history much longer than that of most modern countries.

Lenar Farm is not the kind of accommodation that tries to impress you with conceptual interior design or a bathtub strategically placed in the middle of the bedroom. It's an authentic farmhouse, with lots of wood, cozy rooms, a gorgeous courtyard, and mountains all around. You don't have to look for a room with a mountain view. In fact, you should try to find one without.

Mornings are probably my favorite part. You go outside with a coffee, the air is cool, the sun starts to illuminate the limestone walls, and there's a quietness all around that, if you live in Cluj, you've probably completely forgotten about.

And there's something else we really liked: the people. The Lenar family has that kind of natural hospitality, without too much protocol and without smiles practiced in customer service courses. You feel more like a guest than a customer.

After three visits, I can say that this place has a small flaw: it raises your standards quite a bit for future stays. And it doesn't even seem to make any effort in that direction.

Day 1 – Logarska Dolina Walking Trail, Koča na Klemenči jami and Strelovec peak (1,763 m)

We dedicated the first day of hiking to exploring the valley and the surrounding mountains.

We started with the Logarska Dolina Walking Trail, a route that runs through the valley and offers the perfect opportunity to discover the landscapes for which the place is so famous.

The trail passes through forests, meadows and traditional farms, with permanent views of the peaks that dominate the valley. It is an accessible route, suitable even for those who do not want a demanding hike.

But we hadn't come all the way to Slovenia just to walk through the valley. So we started climbing.

To Koča na Klemenči jami – one of the most beautifully located chalets in the area

From the valley level we climbed to Koča na Klemenči jami, a mountain hut located at approximately 1,208 meters above sea level, on an alpine meadow above Logarska Dolina.

The trail crosses the forest and gradually gains altitude. As you climb, the impressive walls of the Ojstrica massif begin to appear among the trees.

And when you arrive at the cabin clearing, you immediately understand why the place is so appreciated.

In front of you is an amphitheater of mountains, alpine meadows, and one of those views where you could spend an hour without doing much.

For many tourists, the cabin is the final destination. For us, it was just a stop along the way.

Further, towards Strelovec peak – 1,763 m

We continued our climb to Strelovec, a peak that offers spectacular views of Logarska Dolina and the surrounding mountains, but also of Robanov Kot, which we didn't get to visit.

From above, the valley we had crossed in the morning looked completely different. The farms had become small dots in the middle of the meadows, and the access road was lost among the trees.

That's what we love about mountain trails: discovering a place first from below, and a few hours later looking at it from above and understanding its geography in a different way.

We continued the circuit and descended into the valley, after a day in which we perfectly combined relaxed hiking with a real mountain trail.

Dinner at Kmečka hiša Ojstrica – good food and an unbeatable view

In the evening we went to Kmečka hiša Ojstrica, one of the restaurants with the most beautiful view in the valley.

And we're not exaggerating too much when we say that.

The restaurant is set in a stunning setting, with meadows in front and the impressive walls of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps in the background. The food is quite simple but very good.

It's a place worth arriving before sunset, sitting on the terrace, enjoying the scenery and trying the traditional dishes of the region.

Day 2 – Rinka Waterfall, Okrešelj Glacial Amphitheater and crossing over Kamniško Sedlo to Kamniška Bistrica

The next day, we had one of the most beautiful hikes of the trip planned: the climb to Kamniško Sedlo (1,864 m), an alpine saddle located between the Brana and Planjava peaks.

And because we don't really like going back the way we came, we chose to cross the mountains from Logarska Dolina to Kamniška Bistrica. An excellent idea, especially when you're not the one who has to retrieve the cars from the starting point. :) We would like to thank our man Bogdan for this.

First stop: Slap Rinka

We started from the end of the Logarska Dolina valley, where Slap Rinka is located, one of the most famous waterfalls in Slovenia.

It is about 90 meters high and falls over a rock wall in a setting that obviously did not need much improvement. Access to the base of the waterfall is easy, so the place attracts quite a few visitors. In short, it is a large and very beautiful waterfall.

We admired the waterfall, took a few photos, and were on our way. We still had some climbing to do.

Okrešelj – a glacial amphitheater like you rarely see

From the waterfall, the trail begins a steep climb through the forest, with steps, support cables, and a few rocky passages. Nothing particularly difficult for someone used to the mountains.

After the first climb, the forest ends and the landscape suddenly opens up.

We arrive in Okrešelj, a glacial amphitheater surrounded by huge limestone walls, below the peaks of Turska gora, Rinke and Mrzla gora. It's one of those places where you stop, look around and, for a few seconds, have nothing much to add.

Nearby is also a beautiful mountain rescue hut, where we took a short break.

There's no point in trying to describe the place too much. The photos probably do it better, although they don't quite capture the scale of the walls that rise up around you.

If you arrive in Logarska Dolina and have time for just one moderately difficult hike, the climb to Okrešelj is one of the best choices. The effort is reasonable, and the views are anything but reasonable.

But we had other plans. And there was still quite a bit of climbing to do.

Ascent to Kamniško Sedlo (1,864 m)

From Okrešelj, things get a little more serious. The trail climbs through rocks and scree, with a few steep passages and sections equipped with cables.

If the group had been quite talkative up until this point, at some point it suddenly became quiet. Not because we had run out of topics, but because everyone had become very interested in where they were going to put their next boot.

There are a few exposed sections where you need attention, patience, and mountain experience. Nothing particularly complicated for someone used to such trails, but not the kind of place where you'd walk with your hands in your pockets, admiring the clouds.

As we approached the saddle, the panorama became more and more beautiful. Behind us lay the Logarska Dolina, and ahead the southern slopes of the massif began to open up.

At 1,864 meters we arrived in Kamniško Sedlo, where the Kamniška koča chalet is located (a chalet inaugurated in 1906 and beautifully modernized in the meantime, with 56 sleeping places, very clean and well-kept, where you can find simple but surprisingly good food, and if you are a member of an alpine club with a reciprocal agreement, such as the Austrian Alpine Club, you also benefit from discounts on accommodation.

From here, if you're lucky with clear weather, you can admire the walls of Brana and Planjava peaks.

The descent to Kamniška Bistrica – and a well-deserved meal

The nice part of the route was that we didn't have to turn back the way we had come. We crossed the saddle and started the descent on the opposite slope, towards Kamniška Bistrica.

The change of scenery was spectacular. And welcome. :)

We left the limestone cliffs and scree behind, and the trail began to descend into the forests. But that's exactly what we like about mountain crossings. You leave a valley, cross the mountain, and arrive in a completely different place. You see two sides of the same massif and you have the feeling of a small journey, not just a hike.

Finally, we arrived at Dom v Kamniški Bistrici , a chalet-restaurant located in the valley, where the least demanding part of the day awaited us: Dinner.

I ordered ričet , a traditional Slovenian soup so hearty that it's debatable whether it can even be called a soup. It's made with barley, beans, vegetables, and, in the meat-eating version, sausage or smoked meat. I chose the vegetarian version, the rest of the group chose the meat version. For dessert, I tried štruklji , traditional dough rolls filled with sweet cheese. Very good!

As for the logistics of the crossing, obviously we had to organize the recovery of the cars, because the arrival point was in a completely different valley. But it was worth it. It was one of the most beautiful days of the trip.

A recommendation for those who want to repeat the route: the crossing over Kamniško Sedlo is a demanding mountain hike, with a large difference in elevation, exposed passages and a long descent. It requires mountain experience, appropriate equipment and favorable weather conditions. We do not recommend it for beginners.

Day 3 – A short foray into Austria, then Česka koča and dinner at Šenkova domačija

On the third day we changed the scenery a bit. We started from Logarska Dolina and passed through Austria for a few minutes, before returning to Slovenia, in the Jezersko area.

The drive through the border area is an experience in itself. Mountain roads, twists and turns, forests and incredible views of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps. The biker in me quietly sighed the whole way. There are twists and turns that simply should be done on two wheels. Not that there was anything wrong with the car, but some roads deserve more.

The destination of the day was Češka koča na Spodnjih Ravneh (1,542 m) , the famous Czech hut in Jezersko, perched on a rocky terrace below the walls of the Grintovec massif.

Češka koča – a Czech chalet in the middle of the Slovenian Alps

The Češka koča hut is located at 1,542 meters above sea level, on a rocky terrace below the northern walls of the Grintovec massif. To get there, you climb through forests, on paths that gradually become steeper, with a few passages equipped with cables and a wooden ladder. Nothing particularly difficult for someone used to the mountains, but enough to make the route more interesting.

Along the way, we also encountered a few goats and sheep grazing peacefully, without a shepherd or dog in sight. They seemed to be doing great on their own.

At some point, the cabin suddenly appears from the trees and, with it, the entire landscape opens up. The forest gives way to cliffs, huge limestone walls rise above you, and the cabin sits perched on the edge of a rocky terrace.

The hut also has an interesting story. It was built in 1900 by a Czech mountaineering association from Prague, at a time when the Czechs and Slovenes were part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is the oldest mountain hut in Slovenia that has preserved its original appearance almost intact. In fact, it has been there for over 125 years and still looks great.

You won't find huge terraces, minimalist design or sophisticated amenities here. Instead, you get an authentic chalet, lots of wood, a mountain atmosphere and some great views. Inside, everything was surprisingly neat, including the bathroom, which was spotlessly clean. I had a very good apple strudel ( jabolčni zavitek ) and drank a non-alcoholic radler.

For those who want more than just a hike to the hut, from here you can continue to Grintovec (2,558 m), the highest peak in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, or to Jezerska Kočna (2,540 m) and Dolgi hrbet. However, these are serious alpine routes, with exposed passages and sections secured with cables, which require experience and appropriate equipment.

Dinner at Šenkova domačija – 500 years of history and one of the best meals in Slovenia

In the evening we arrived at Šenkova domačija, a traditional farm in Jezersko, and I think it was one of the most beautiful gastronomic surprises of the trip.

The place is absolutely wonderful. The farm has over 500 years of history, and the year 1521 appears on the main building. The ensemble includes eight traditional buildings, with wooden roofs, preserved almost in their original form. Since 1949, the main house has been protected as a cultural monument of national importance. Basically, these people managed to preserve a medieval farm in excellent condition,

Today, the farm is run by Polona Karničar and her family, who have transformed it into a place where you can stay, eat, and discover what life is like on an authentic Alpine farm. It is also an organic farm, where they raise local breeds of animals and produce much of the ingredients used in the kitchen.

For dinner we had a full menu, with traditional dishes, made mostly from ingredients produced right on the farm or brought in from neighbors. Nothing sophisticated in the modern sense of the word, but everything incredibly tasty.

We started with homemade bread and masunjek , a warm, hearty cream made from sour cream and flour, a traditional specialty of the region's shepherds. This was followed by a salad of organic vegetables, with bean pods and beetroot, fresh and very tasty. Nothing complicated, just good ingredients that didn't need too much help.

The main course was ajmoht , a traditional, hearty stew-like soup, to which we added ajdovi žganci , a buckwheat flour dish with a crumbly texture. Basically, you could put as much buckwheat as you wanted in the soup, which we thought was a great idea. Especially since after a day of hiking in the mountains, no one was concerned about eating less.

Finally came skutne palačinke , pancakes filled with cottage cheese. And although we were already full, we found that there was always a little extra room for dessert.

What we liked most was the simplicity. It wasn't anything like the gastronomy category where they serve you three leaves on a giant plate and then spend ten minutes explaining the concept. It was real food, prepared with care, from good ingredients, according to recipes that have been passed down through many generations.

And the setting made everything even more beautiful. That sunset over the mountains...

If you end up in Jezersko, we wholeheartedly recommend dining here. Ideally with advance reservation.

We left very happy. And very full. In that order, although the difference was small.

A day in Bled + Bojinj – the lake, the castle and the spectacular Vintgar Gorge + Ljubljana

Lake Bled – beautiful, famous and much photographed + the surprise of Bohinj

We couldn't arrive in Slovenia without seeing one of the country's most famous places: Lake Bled.

For many tourists, Bled is Slovenia. They come here, see the lake, take a few photos, and go home convinced that they have discovered the country.

We won't dwell too much on the place. It's that beautiful lake, with a tiny island and a church in the middle, elegant hotels, imperial-looking buildings, a medieval castle perched on a cliff, and mountains in the background. You know, that image you've already seen about 300 times on the internet. :)

We also reached Lake Bohinj, located in the heart of Triglav National Park, the largest natural lake in Slovenia. It's a kind of Bled, only wilder, quieter and without so many hotels and tourists preoccupied with finding the perfect angle for Instagram. The mountains descend almost to the water, the forests reach the shore and everything has a much more authentic air.

Vintgar Gorge – incredibly blue water and impeccable organization

Also near Bled, we visited the Vintgar Gorge ( Soteska Vintgar ), carved by the Radovna River into the limestone cliffs on the edge of Triglav National Park.

Here it's worth talking a little about the organization, because the Slovenians really did an excellent job.

We drove to the official VINTGAR LIP parking lot, from where we took the electric bus that transports visitors to the entrance to the gorge. We had bought the tickets in advance, online, for a pre-set time slot. The price is 15 euros per person , and this includes entrance to the gorge, parking and bus transportation. Everything is very simple, without unnecessary congestion and without looking for a parking space on the side of the road.

The gorges are approximately 1.6 kilometers long and are crossed on a route arranged with wooden bridges and walkways, suspended in places above the river. The water has an almost unreal color, sometimes turquoise, sometimes deep blue. They are very beautiful, without a doubt. And, even though they are an extremely popular tourist attraction, they are worth visiting.

At the end of the gorge, you don't return on the same route. We continued on a path through the forest, completing the circuit to the entrance area. It was a pleasant walk, away from the crowds on the walkways, after which we took the bus back to the parking lot, where our car was waiting.

The whole experience takes about three hours and is perfectly organized. Access by reservation, controlled number of visitors, transportation included and a well-maintained route. A very good solution for such a visited place, which protects both nature and the nerves of tourists.

Ljubljana – a kind of Cluj, only it's the real capital

After Bled and the Vintgar Gorge, we ended the day in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.

With about 300,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is about the size of Cluj. It's just that the Slovenians decided to make their city their capital, not just call it that from time to time. :)

We love Cluj, it's our city and we feel very much at home. But Ljubljana has a special charm. It's bohemian, elegant, with a slightly imperial air, beautiful buildings, a castle that watches over the city from the hill and an almost suspicious quietness for a European capital.

There is even a local legend, which I just made up, that the last time someone honked their horn in Ljubljana was in 1994. Apparently, the man was in a hurry, and the incident has been discussed in the community ever since.

The historic center is gorgeous, with elegant bridges over the Ljubljanica River, lively terraces, and narrow streets that you enjoy wandering around without a specific destination. Much of the center is pedestrianized, and the city seems very clean, safe, and well-organized. You don't have to watch out for cars every ten meters or wonder if the sidewalk you're walking on is actually a parking lot.

We strolled through the center, admired the bridges and historic buildings, enjoyed the atmosphere of the city, and, obviously, ended the evening with a good dinner.

What else we would have liked to see: Robanov Kot and Velika Planina

Robanov Kot and Velika Planina – more reasons to come back

We still had a few places on our list, but as usual, time passed faster than we would have liked. And no matter how hard we tried, the days still only had 24 hours.

Robanov Kot is a glacial valley adjacent to Logarska Dolina, but less known and visited. It is a quiet pastoral valley, with old farms, meadows and limestone walls rising above it. The name comes from the Roban farm, a farm with a history of about 800 years. From here, an easy hike, about an hour, to the alpine pasture Robanova planina starts.

Velika Planina was the other outstanding area. It is a vast alpine plateau, at about 1,500–1,600 meters above sea level, known for one of the largest shepherd villages in Europe. The landscape is a bit reminiscent of our Apuseni, with wide pastures, grazing animals and households spread across the hills. Only here, instead of the old houses, you find wooden houses with very wide oval roofs, which descend almost to the ground.

And it's not just a village preserved for tourists. In the summer, shepherds still bring their cows to the plateau and live in these huts, continuing a centuries-old tradition. You can walk among them, taste dairy products made there and even discover trnič , a traditional cheese with an unusual shape, which was once also offered as a symbol of love. A place where nature and local traditions still work together, and not just in the photos in tourist brochures.

Unfortunately, we never made it to any of these places. But we didn't set out to check off all of Slovenia in one trip either.

And after a few days spent in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, we came to the conclusion that we have a rather pleasant problem: the list of places we want to return to is longer than it was before we left.

Useful information if you want to explore Logarska Dolina

We have gathered here a few things that we think are important for those who want to organize a similar trip.

Some recommendations from our perspective, as UIMLA mountain hiking guides

Logarska Dolina is a destination that we highly recommend, including for families with children and those traveling with pets. It is a quiet, clean, safe and very well-organized region, ideal for those looking for an authentic vacation. If you prefer all-inclusive resorts, with swimming pools and entertainment programs, this is probably not the place for you. Here, the entertainment is provided by the mountains, cows and, occasionally, a more sociable goat. :)

From a hiking perspective, it is important to distinguish between valley walks and alpine trails. The trail through Logarska Dolina or Robanov Kot and the access to the Rinka waterfall are relatively easy and suitable for a wide audience. On the other hand, the trails to Okrešelj, Kamniško Sedlo or some of the huts in the Jezersko area can involve large differences in level, rocky terrain, exposed passages and sections equipped with cables. The difficulty depends on the chosen route, and some variants require experience and appropriate equipment.

The weather in the Kamnik–Savinja Alps can change quickly, and the wet limestone becomes very slippery. Always check the weather forecast, trail conditions, and hut schedules. If you are bringing dogs, also check local regulations and choose trails that are suitable for them.

Otherwise, Slovenia is the kind of place where you can have a great vacation without constantly running from one attraction to another. Sometimes it's enough to just walk, eat well, and look at the mountains. And we, of course, recommend doing as much of all three as possible.

The three hikes – indicative dates

Slovenia conquered us. And we were barely halfway through the trip.

Slovenia, a country we would return to anytime

Slovenia was not a stranger to us. We had been here several times before, in summer and winter, and each visit had convinced us that it was worth coming back. That is exactly why we chose it for one of the Up the Mountains trips. (our first foreign trip by the way)

After spending the days in Logarska Dolina, we are even more convinced that Slovenia offers one of the best ratios between the beauty of nature, the variety of experiences and the quality of tourist infrastructure in Europe. It has extraordinary mountains, trails for all levels, traditional villages and farms, good food and places where tourism seems to have developed without spoiling the very things people come there for.

But most of all we like the atmosphere. Everything seems neat, clean and settled. The mountains are not just a decoration for tourists, but a natural part of people's lives.

We went on beautiful hikes, discovered new places, and, most importantly, spent some great days together. And for us, at Up the Mountains, that's what it's all about. The mountains, obviously, but also the people we discover them with.

From here, our journey continued to the Soča Valley, with its turquoise rivers, waterfalls, gorges and alpine villages. But we'll talk about all of that in part two.

Until then, if you have the chance to get to Logarska Dolina, go. We would come back anytime. In fact, given our history with Slovenia, there's a pretty good chance we will.

SMALL GROUPS. BIG MOUNTAINS. 🍒